Veronica's
Make Your Own
Adult Sex Toy Controller from Radio Shack® Parts
Minor Revision to Circuit on 01 January 2003: All files updated
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You'll need one package of each of the above and at current prices it should cost you $20.90 (U.S. dollars). Shopping at Radio Shack® is more expensive than a regular electronics parts store but if you don't have access to a specialty shop in a city then paying a small premium for the parts is not too bad. There are 7200 Radio Shack® stores in the U.S. The price of the adult toy is not included in the above.
You'll also need some tools (soldering iron, pliers, knife etc.) and some wire, electronic solder (not the plumbing stuff!) and a bit of time. If you're not familiar with electronics you can usually get beginners books at your local library or take a look around the Internet for electronic hobbyists.
Data Sheets for this project:
For help in soldering your circuit get ApogeeKits FREE Illustrated Guide to Electronics Soldering (about 930 KB) A 12 page illustrated Acrobat document click here and follow the link on the Apogee Kits download page. Excellent reference.
The controller works quite well and is adjustable over a wide range with the potentiometer (variable resistor). You should adjust it so that it runs steadily when the window is light. You can mount the entire control box on suction cups and stick it to your monitor or mount the CdS cell on a "stalk" made from heavy wire and use it to position the cell to "see" the control window. Use black paper to mask out any extraneous light that might cause false triggering of the circuit. You may have noticed that a TL082 DUAL op amp is used and only one side of it is used. Radio Shack only carries this part in dual version. If you're so inclined you can make a dual vibrator control using the other half of the TL082 and the information from the schematic and the data sheet.
Below is a photograph of the prototype circuit showing the actual wiring. The battery is NOT shown in this photograph (the two leads that exit on the left hand side of the photo go to the battery, the top lead is the positive lead, the lower lead the ground or negative lead). The motor is shown to give you an idea of how the circuit is actually connected. Usually the motor is inside the toy. The white dot on the TL082 (black retangular object near the center of the photo) marks pin #1, the output of the TL082. For actual use all components would be assembled on a circuit board to provide mechanical strength and stability.
